If the wall carries load, it needs a beam sized by an engineer, temporary shoring while it’s out, and posts down to proper footings. Hidden wires, pipes and ducts come out too.
Hire this out: licensed work with a permit.
How it goes
6 stages
1
Is it load-bearing?
Warning signs: joists above run across it and rest on it; there’s a wall or beam directly below it in the basement; it runs down the middle of the house.
2
Engineer
Sizes the beam, posts and footings — and gives the permit office drawings.
3
Permit
Structural work always needs one.
4
Shoring
Temporary walls hold the floor or roof while the old wall comes out.
5
Reroute
Electrician, plumber or HVAC moves anything inside the wall.
6
Patch
Floor, ceiling and wall patching — often DIY-able.
What you can do yourself
Once the pros are done, these parts are DIY. Each has a Sheet: the materials counted, the tools and the steps.
Has an engineer confirmed whether the wall is load-bearing?
•
Where does the new beam’s load go, and are the footings below adequate?
•
Who handles wires, pipes or ducts inside the wall?
•
Is patching and painting included?
These are the general rules. Your state, province or town may add its own: check with your local building department before you start.
Licenses and registration
Taking out or changing a bearing wall needs a building permit from your local building department, which will usually want an engineer’s or architect’s drawing of the new beam and posts. Many states and some cities license or register home improvement contractors: ask for the number and check it. Anything inside the wall goes to a licensed electrician or plumber. Rules change — your building department has the last word.
Get quotes from local pros
Quotes from local pros need the online version
StudSheet sends quote requests to verified local pros through your account, so it needs the online version at app.studsheet.com. For now, copy this page and send it to a contractor you trust.