Lay out and cut stringers, treads, risers and the landing — to code.
Answers
Sheet
Sheet A-1 · Deck stairs
Stairs for a 4′ rise
DIY OK
Steps
6
7 risers of 6-7/8″
Stringers
3
2×12 × 8′
Run
5′ 1-1/2″
floor space
Comfort
24″
2R + T (24–25 ideal)
16–25 h of work
Two weekends: pour the pad, let it cure, then build.
Draft
The rules behind this Sheet are waiting for a licensed pro’s sign-off.
Guards and a handrail are required
Four or more risers need a graspable handrail 34–38″ above the nosings. Open sides of steps more than 30″ above the ground need a 36″ guard (34″ along the stairs) with gaps under 4⅜″.
Permit likely needed
Deck stairs are permitted with the deck, and a deck more than 30″ above the ground needs a permit (IRC R105.2). This one is 4′ up. Confirm with your building department.
Frost depth
A landing pad usually sits on the ground, but some towns want footings under the stairs, below the frost line: your building department sets the depth, and footings go at least 12″ below undisturbed ground either way.
Call 811 first — it’s the law
Call 811 a few business days before digging (your state sets the wait). Free. Wait for the utility markings.
Drawing
Side view
1
Stringer Treated 2×12, notched. 3 across the width.
2
Tread Two boards, 1″ nosing over the riser.
3
Riser board 6-7/8″ tall, fills the step face.
4
Stringer connector Ties each stringer to the rim joist.
5
The drop Bottom of the stringer cut 1″ short so the first step matches.
6
Landing 4″ concrete on 4″ gravel, 36″ deep.
7
Handrail Graspable, 34–38″ above the nosings.
Stringer shown with the drop. Angle 34°.
What to buy
16 items
Save to your jobs to check things off in the store.
Lumber
Stringers
Pressure-treated 2×12 · 2×12 × 8′
3 boards
Stringer stock. The deck guide (DCA 6) calls for 2×12 minimum.
Treads
5/4×6 treated deck board · 5/4×6 × 10′
4 boards
Tread boards, 1″ thick × 5½″ wide.
Riser boards
Treated 1×8 · 1×8 × 10′
2 boards
Riser boards (7¼″ tall).
Kicker
Pressure-treated 2×4 · treated 2×4 × 8′
1 board
Treated against rot — for wood touching concrete or outdoors.
Forms
2×4 × 8′
4 boards
Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″.
Guard posts
Pressure-treated 4×4 post · 4×4 × 8′
4 posts
Railing posts.
Treated 2×2 balusters
36″
30 balusters
Vertical guard pickets.
Guard rails
Pressure-treated 2×4 · treated 2×4 × 8′
4 boards
Treated against rot — for wood touching concrete or outdoors.
Fasteners
Coated deck screws
2½″ coated
≈114 screws (2 boxes of 100)
Exterior-rated screws for treads and risers.
Concrete screws 3¼″
1 small box
Anchor the bottom kicker board to the pad.
Hardware
Adjustable stair-stringer connector
galvanized, adjustable
3 connectors
Galvanized bracket that ties each stringer to the deck rim.
Connector fasteners
as the connector maker specifies
1 box
Use exactly what the connector maker specifies.
Graspable handrail + brackets
8 ft lengths + brackets
1 × 8 ft + 3 brackets
A rail you can wrap your hand around (1¼–2″ round). A flat 2×4 top doesn’t count.
Concrete & landscape
Landing pad
Concrete mix, 80 lb · 80 lb bags
10 bags
About 0.6 cu ft per bag.
Pad base
Base gravel (paver base) · 0.5 cu ft bags
15 bags
Crushed stone with fines; compacts into a firm, level base.
Wood stakes
12″–18″
8 stakes
Hold form boards in place.
Tools
You own 0 of 20 must-haves
Tap the ones you already own. That builds your Tool Shed as you go — no setup.
Must have
The job stalls without it.
Framing square
Big steel L-square. With stair gauges it lays out stair stringers.
Stair gauges
Makes every notch identical
Tape measure (25 ft)
The red boxes every 16″ on the blade are stud spacing.
Carpenter's pencil
Flat, doesn't roll away, marks rough lumber.
Circular saw
Handheld power saw for lumber and sheet goods.
Handsaw
Finish the notch corners — don’t over-cut with the circular saw
Speed square
Triangle square for marking square and angled cuts on lumber.
4-ft level
Checks plumb and level over a long span.
Clamps (2)
Hold stringers together to mark matching copies.
Sawhorses
Cutting support.
Impact driver
Drives long framing and deck screws without stripping.
Cordless drill/driver
Drills holes, drives screws, mixes small batches.
Safety glasses
Every cut, every nail, every time.
Hearing protection
Saws and nailers are loud enough to damage hearing.
Work gloves
Tack strip, block and lumber shred hands.
Square shovel
Cuts clean trench walls, moves gravel.
Hand tamper
Compacts soil and gravel in small areas.
Mixing tub + hoe
Mixes bagged concrete by hand.
Concrete float + edger
Smooths a fresh pad and rounds its edges.
Wheelbarrow
Moves gravel, soil and block.
Rent it
Costly to buy for one job. Rent it for a day.
Hammer drill + masonry bit
Drills the pad for the kicker’s concrete screws
Rent
Nice to have
Faster or cleaner, not required.
Miter saw
Clean tread and riser cuts
Jigsaw
Cuts curves and notches.
Order of work
16–25 h of work
01
Build the landing first (4″ gravel, 4″ concrete) and let it cure 2–3 days — you measure the rise to its top.
Check first
Landing at least 36″ deep and as wide as the stairs.
Wait 2–3 days — concrete landing cures before you build on it
Keep it damp and off-limits. Cold weather slows curing — see the bag. Lay out and cut the stringers meanwhile.
02
Measure the total rise from the top of the deck boards to the landing, straight down at the spot where the bottom step lands.
Check first
Measure the rise at the landing spot — straight down where the bottom step lands, not at the deck edge.
03
Set stair gauges on the framing square at 6-7/8″ rise and 10-1/4″ run. Mark 6 notches on the first 2×12.
04
“Drop” the stringer: cut 1″ off the bottom so the first step matches the rest once the tread is on.
Check first
Cut 1″ off the bottom of each stringer — forget it and the bottom step comes out 1″ taller than the rest.
05
Cut the notches with the circular saw, stopping at the lines. Finish each corner with a handsaw.
Check first
Stop the circular saw at the line and finish each corner with a handsaw — over-cutting weakens the stringer.
06
Test-fit the first stringer, then trace it onto the others.
07
Hang the stringers from the rim with connectors, 17-1/4″ on center; anchor the bottoms to the kicker.
Check first
Concrete landing cured (2–3 days) before you anchor to it.
08
Install riser boards, then treads: 2 boards per step, 1″ nosing overhang, ⅛–¼″ gap between boards.
09
Install guard posts, rails and balusters, and a graspable handrail 34–38″ above the nosings.
Mistakes that ruin the job
3 mistakes
1
Forgetting to drop the stringer
The bottom step ends up 1″ taller than the rest. Inspectors fail more than ⅜″ of variation — and people trip on it.
2
Measuring the rise at the deck edge
Ground slopes. Measure straight down where the bottom step will actually land.
3
Over-cutting the notches
Running the circular saw past the line cuts into the stringer’s strength. Stop short and finish by hand.
Plan it
The load
To haul
2,040 lb
from the store to the room
Helpers
1
for some steps
Heaviest
Concrete mix, 80 lb · 10 bags · 800 lb
Base gravel (paver base) · 15 bags · 750 lb
Pressure-treated 2×12 · 3 pcs · 120 lb
Bring a helper: hang the stringers
One holds each stringer level and in place while the other fastens it.
Bring a helper: unload and move materials
About 2,040 lb to move — have it delivered, or bring a helper and a hand truck or wheelbarrow.
Rent: Hammer drill + masonry bit
When you’ll finish
Pick when you can start and how many hours you have.
Hours you can work
Each weekday evening
0
h
Each weekend day
8
h
Saved for every Sheet. Waits run overnight and on days off; work only fills the hours you have.
DIY vs hiring it out
Estimate
Typical US store prices and labor rates, not a quote. A real price can differ a lot.